**Any resemblance to real people would be purely coincidental… but we wouldn’t be at all surprised! **
You’ve done it! Your heart has just melted for a beautiful little feline and you’ve decided toadopt your long-awaited Prince. Like a new parent, you’re overflowing with happiness, but there’s just one thought on your mind… Will Prince get on well with Reine, the kitty who has filled your life until now? How do you introduce the two cats so that they can live together without worry? How can you avoid traumatizing either of your little furry friends? You want everything to go smoothly and your cats to live in harmony!
While it sometimes happens that two cats who meet get along well at first sight, the majority of the time, the too abrupt arrival of a new cat in the house rhymes with stress, squabbles and problems. Following a few simple, but oh-so-important steps will facilitate the integration of all Prince cats, promote acceptance of all Queens and lead to the best possible cohabitation between our cats!
Watch our video on the subject!
Why is my cat hiding?
Arriving in an unfamiliar place is always stressful, whether you’re a cat or not. The difference lies in the way each individual experiences this stress, and the time needed to adapt to the new environment and regain confidence. One of a cat’ s main reactions to stress is to hide. Hiding provides a sense of security, helping to calm the emotions that have arisen as a result of stress. The cat can then observe its environment without being seen (according to its own criteria) and find the best solution to “survive” the upheaval. Feline individuals vary enormously in their ability to adapt to change. Similarly, for each individual, these capacities can vary over time. Since we don’t know exactly how the new cat will react, it’s best to plan for the worst to avoid unpleasant surprises! The more secure the cat feels, the more comfortable it will be, and the less need it will have to hide.
A shy new cat: how do you integrate it into your home?
When Prince arrives home (whether it’s where you live or the vacation home where you’ve brought your cat), you’ll have set up a room just for him. Limiting access to the apartment means limiting the space to be explored and tamed at first, to make it easier for the cat to establish new landmarks. However, although access to the rest of the house is limited, the isolation room itself must be able to provide the cat with EVERYTHING he needs. There should be a place to eat, a water bowl or fountain, safe high places to climb safe, high places to climbsafe hiding places and a welcoming litter box, away from the food.. This isolation room is therefore not a prison, but rather areception room for the new cat, hidden from the eyes of the cat already living in the house.
The duration of the isolation will vary greatly: we want to prevent any contact between Prince and Queen until Prince is perfectly at ease in his room, and Queen has stopped worrying about what’s going on on the other side of the room’s door! From one cat to another, this period can last from a few days to a few weeks. Take your time! This period is the ideal time to get to know and bond with our newcomer, since every day we’ll spend time with him, feeding him, playing with him, petting him, giving him treats… and getting to know him. We’ll also take the opportunity to make sure he’s in good health by visiting our family vet. During this time, the resident cat will have no contact with the newcomer, but they will be able to smell each other from under the door.
How to prevent the new cat from attacking the old one?
The worst mistake to make would be to put them together before they’re ready. You’ll know Prince is ready to explore more when he’s happy in his room. A happycat walks with his tail and head held high. He comes to see us, eats well, plays alone and with us, and all his other behaviors are normal. The same signs apply to Reine, who occupies the rest of the house.
The last step before making the real introductions is to let Prince discover the rest of the house, in Queen’s absence. To do this, we’ll temporarily place Reine in the isolation room, but with a few much-appreciated treats, or we’ll close the door to the room where she’ll be napping. First point to remember: the two cats must not see each other. Second point: exploration of the house must be accompanied by a variety of treats and rewards, so as to quickly create good associations.
If all continues to go well, it’s time to get down to business! As long as Prince and Queen are separated by a door, there’s no need to worry aboutfighting, since they can’t interact. However, the aim is to get the two cats to live together. So they have to meet! At this point, the terrible mistake to make would, of course, be to miss the introductions!
3 steps to a fight-free introduction to two cats
The introduction technique consists of three simple steps. So simple that we often tend not to do them properly! That’s right! Take my word for it! I describe them in detail here, and the golden rule is to follow them… to the letter!
Step 1:
If you’ve read and applied everything that’s been explained so far, and you’re sure that kittens are comfortable without seeing each other, you’ve reached stage 2! In fact, the first stage is the new kitty’s period of isolation, to allow it to acclimatize to its new home and its new human, without meeting the cat or cats residing in the house before its arrival. In our story, Prince and Queen have reached stage 2.
Step 2:
- Making sure the cats are hungry, prepare a dish of food or delicacies for each one.
- Then slightly open the door to the reception room so that both cats can see each other, without touching. Keep your hand on the handle so you can close it if necessary. A baby gate or mosquito net can also help.
- If you’re lucky enough to have several people, assign someone to each cat, each with his or her own dish of food. Otherwise, place the dish of victuals in the new cat’s room first, about 1 or 2 meters from the door, then return to feed the first cat with the second dish, also 1 or 2 meters from the door so that it faces the door.
Here, the trick to remember is the adage “When appetite goes, everything goes”. If Queen and/or Prince refuse their meal, move the bowls away until both cats want to eat. If everyone eats, it’s a success! Repeat this exercise at least once or twice a day, continuing to move the bowls closer together after each success, as long as all the animals are eating.
The principle of the second stage is to encourage a pleasant association: when the cat sees the other cat, something great happens (hence the importance of finding a food that is particularly tasty in the cat’s eyes!). This second stage ends when the cats are eating in front of each other, without growling, without feinting, without pawing – in short, calmly!
Step 3:
Once all the animals are eating calmly in front of each other, move the dishes back as before and open the door completely. The cats will then be able to move freely around the house, under supervision. To avoid worries, Prince will return to his foster room when it is impossible to monitor the interaction between the two cats. As soon as Prince and Reine show minimal signs of stress while free in your presence, their unsupervised cohabitation can officially begin!
Cohabitation: 2 cats without bickering
In the early stages of cohabitation, it’s normal for Prince and Queen to spit, growl, paw or chase each other. Give cats a chance to work out strategies on their own to avoid future conflicts. They have the right to initiate talks if a certain resource is in high demand, but also to express themselves if one of the cats doesn’t respect the other’s bubble. Intervening only prolongs these often noisy but necessary negotiations. If the bickering seems too intense, don’t come between the cats. you risk being bitten or scratched. ! Instead, take a cushion and throw it close to the cats. Wait for them to separate and isolate them. The next time you get them back together, offer them a treat tasty enough to make them forget the other cat’s presence. If that doesn’t work, isolate them immediately and call us.
Although it may seem heartbreaking, it’s also possible for one cat to “take the place” of the other. There’s no justice or seniority among cats. You have to let them go.
Differences between adult cats and kittens
In general, kittens aged between 3 and 5 months are better able to adapt to change. However, this does not guarantee a quick and easy introduction. In fact, all cats must be introduced at their own pace . Going through the whole process will take from a few days to several weeks, depending on the cat, regardless of age, sex or breed. It’s the cat that’s slowest to adapt that will determine how long it takes.
Once cohabitation has begun (and even well before!), enriching the environment (high places, places to claw, interactive bowls, etc.) will become the key to avoiding a generational conflict between the rambunctious new kitten and the often quieter adult.
Preventing senseless attacks
Skipping steps, going too fast, putting our emotions before our cats’ needs, or forgetting to respect the signs of stress our cats send us, all prevent thepositive association we want to create and increase the risk of future conflicts. By taking the time you need, the relationship between your cats will be built on solid, pleasant foundations. Yes, there will still be some minor conflicts, as the cats will have to modify their routines and make compromises. But, if the introduction is successful, negotiations will take place on a basis of tolerance – or, even better, affection!
Should the introduction of your Prince or Queen not go smoothly, we’re here to help. Don’t hesitate to contact us for a consultationif things really aren’t going well, or for a little coachingif you need help getting back on track!
Article written by Karine Gélinas
Educator and veterinarian
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